Occupy This! : Musings from the Middle East

My adventure in Israel and Palestine begins.

Tuesday, July 04, 2006

Tues.- JULY 4 : Random thoughts

It's almost the end of another busy work day for me. I can't remember if I mentioned what I do here in Nazareth. I'm interning for The Follow-up Committee on Arab Education. This NGO basically deals with the discrimination against Israeli Arab students within Israel. Did you know that Arab students make up 25% of the student population in Israel but are only given a fraction of what Jewish schools get in terms of resources and funding. The government actually has "areas of preference" which are given more money. When you look at how badly the Arab minority in Israel is treated you can't help but compare it to the Civil Rights movement of the 1950s in America. Check this out...There is Nazareth (the old city) and Nazareth Illit (pronounce "elite"). That's where the posh Jewish population lives. It's amazing how bad the racism is here. You literally can't say the word "Palestine" in West Jerusalem or Tel Aviv. It's scary.

Ok now for some silly random thoughts;

-I was watching the Brazil game on German television and the only words I could understand were. "Ronaldo....Weight Watchers...." I laughed out loud. Poor Ronaldo, everyone knows he's fat.

-There is a "Pancakes and Crip" shop in town! I love the misspelled words. It's awesome and so endearing.

-The mean old Spaniards are gone and I kinda miss them. It's kinda quiet without 3000 old people running around the hotel and city. Who will shove me? Who will trip over their own baggage and then look at ME! as if it were my fault????


That's it. I've been invited to go see the Germans play Italy tonight at 10pm. I'm tired as hell but I can't miss it.

will write more tomorrow.

Mon, JULY 3 – Shwarma’d Out

I ate shwarma for lunch and dinner today. It’s actually all I’ve been eating for the last week or so. I realize that the food in the area consists of falafel, shwarma and hummus. That’s it! Oh, of course there are the endless toppings that can be added to make each and every shwarma a little different. You have different types of olives, salads and pickled goodies to choose from. I can almost say that I’m a bit tired of the shwarma, but not completely. The people here take great pride in their abilities to make the best shwarma around. Of course everyone will tell you theirs is the best, but I believe I’ve found the crème de la crème of all shwarma and falafel shops in Nazareth.

“El Shark” is a tiny shop on the main street that runs through the city of “the Naz.” Of course we’ve dubbed the town with a nickname already. You can imagine all the things that can be done with “the Naz” as a catch phrase….Naz Hands! So, El Shark is run by two Arab Israeli men. The sandwiches are cheap and oh so lovely. We did pass a “Falafel – 99 – shwarma” restaurant on our way to the “mall” today. I think I may try it tomorrow just because I commend the owners for keeping the “99” in their name and not falling into the “Millennium” trap.

Believe me when I say that Nazareth is stuck in the year 2000. Our hotel brochure still features the Millennium celebrations as its best attraction. The gift shops still carry “Millennium 2000” post cards! Everywhere you go, the number 2000 is posted. It’s become a running joke, like many things we see in the city. We’re working on a t-shirt that will say “I survived the Naz – 2000 (06)” It’s actually quite charming. The country was really hoping for a huge revenue boost during the Millennium celebrations but the second intifada happened and the tourism business went belly up.

There are actually many characteristics about Nazareth that are very charming. We have our own Ice Craem shop. Nope, I didn’t misspell Ice Craem. That’s what the sign reads and I love it. We have our local soccer hooligans who drive up and down the main street with German flags posted on them. The men here all wear scary tight jeans and tight shirts. We’ve dubbed them the “tight-pansers” or “T-P” if you will. There are several local shops right across from where we are staying. We have little bakeries and fresh produce shops. We even have a butcher shop that sells the best lamb brains in town. Today, we found a mall that sells things like shampoo, deodorant and gum balls with the Israeli flag on them. We were most happy when we made this discovery.

So you can say that I’m slowly adjusting to life here, as short as the trip may be. Our first day at the NGO was also quite nice. We were able to begin work on the NGO’s newsletter. We’re redesigning it and writing many of the articles that will be featured. My roommate Nicole and I will be working the same project. The bosses have made us feel very welcome and have actually given us free reign over the newsletter. I was hoping that they might let me put in some junk about Nicole and Paris and somehow tie it into the civil rights violations of the state of Israel against Arab students. I’m sure they’ll be cool with it. I’m also going to somehow get my photo into the newsletter. I think they’ll be happier with Paris Hilton gossipJ